from 1998 Accidents in North American
Mountaineering
Copyright and Published by The American Alpine
Club
Alberta, Murchison Falls
Three ice climbers set out to climb Murchison
Falls (180m, V, WI4) at 1000, March 27, and were
at the base of the first pitch at noon. One of
the climbers was ill and returned to the
highway, leaving the other two to complete the
climb. They agreed to meet at the vehicle after
the climb, but set no time, as they believed
they would be down after dark.
At 1400 the pair were starting the third
pitch. The ice was wet, and the climbers took
three hours to climb the final 80 meters. Their
only headlamp was left in a pack at the bottom
of the climb, and they did not reach the top
until dark. It took three hours for the pair to
complete four rappels. By 2130 they were at the
base of the climb, and were back at their
vehicle by 2250. In the meantime, the third
climber who had returned early became concerned,
and at 2200 called the Jasper Park emergency
line to request a rescue. Four wardens were on
standby, and two responded to Saskatchewan
Crossing where the reporting person was waiting.
When wardens arrived, the climbers were safely
down, and the rescue response was terminated.
Analysis
Although no rescue was required, this type of
incident is becoming more common with the
increase in popularity of ice climbing.
Underestimating the time required to complete
the climb, not retreating, having inadequate
equipment, and fatigue all combined to result in
a potentially serious incident. (Source: Parks
Canada Warden Service)
Alberta, Mount Temple, Greenwood/Locke Route
On August 20, a party of two attempted the
Greenwood/Locke Route (V, 5.9 A1). The two got a
predawn start and reached the rock pitches above
the upper icefield in good time. The pitches
were very wet and they decided to retreat. They
rappelled and down- climbed the majority of the
lower route, then unroped to descend the final
snow gully. The lowest climber was moving down
the gully, facing out, when he lost his footing.
He attempted to self-arrest and was partially
successful. Before he could stop himself, a
crampon hooked and he began to tumble, falling
200 meters to the scree below. His partner
continued to descend the route and found his
partner dead from massive head injuries. The
second climber descended to the trail, and with
the help of a cell phone from nearby hikers,
contacted Warden Service Dispatch.
Analysis
Both climbers were very experienced. With the
steepness of the descent gully and the short ice
axes carried, it may have been better to descend
the gully facing in, rather than out. (Source:
Parks Canada Warden Service)
Alberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca
On Sept. 26, a lone climber took out a safety
registration for a climb of Mount Athabasca,
with a return time of 1200 the next day
indicated, although the climber had no intention
of over-nighting on the mountain. He was
experienced, and successfully climbed the
Silverhorn route. However, he was unfamiliar
with the topography of the mountain, and a
whiteout on the way up prevented him from
viewing the standard descent route, which leaves
the west ridge and follows a wide horizontal
traverse to the right to avoid a large icefall.
From the summit, he started down the ridge
toward the standard route, completely unaware of
an alternative descent via the Athabasca-Andromeda
Col, which could be reached by following the
southwest branch of the same ridge down to the
col. He had no trail to follow because of recent
storm snow, and so traversed back and forth
while descending, trying to find a way through
the icefall. He did not go far enough down the
ridge to find the traverse ramp, and was forced
to bivouac at an elevation over 3000 meters,
exposed to wind and snow overnight, with only a
light nylon sack for protection.
When he failed to return on September 27,
wardens became concerned, and proceeded at 1300
to search the mountain. By that time, the
climber was severely hypothermic and unable to
move, but he was able to wave his hand. The
helicopter was prevented from landing by wind
and poor visibility, so wardens were slung in
under it to evacuate him. The pilot did a
masterful flying performance in extremely poor
conditions during the rescue. Paramedics who
attended the victim estimate that he was within
a half hour of death by hypothermia.
Analysis
Although the climber was experienced, he did
not research the mountain adequately, and so
became stymied when bad weather prevented him
from seeing where to go. Had he known about the
A-A Col descent route, or the correct line of
the standard route, he might have gotten down on
his own and in good time, even in bad weather.
In any case, soloing on a glacier is hazardous.
Many people have fallen into deep crevasses on
Mount Athabasca. (Source: Parks Canada Warden
Service)
Alabama, Pelham
On March 2, Chad Lovelady (23) and Eric
Langwager (17) decided they would go rappelling
that evening on rocks behind the building where
they work. Around 9:00 p.m., Chad began the
first rappel. About mid-way down, he noticed an
overhand knot in the line. Rather than remove
it, he forced it through his figure eight,
continued to the bottom, and then asked Eric to
remove it before descending. Eric untied the
knot, tossed the rope down and began his rappel,
with Chad on belay. Since it was dark and they
were using a black rope, neither one could see
that the rope had tangled about 60 feet from the
bottom. Eric stopped just above the entanglement
and tried to remove it with one hand. Due to his
inexperience, he did not know how to lock off,
so he tired and quickly slipped closer to the
jam. This forced Chad to tighten the belay,
which cinched the entanglement even more.
Rescue was called around 8:30 p.m. by a third
party. After a basic pick-off, the climbers went
on their way.
Analysis
Chad had about six years of experience, but
Eric had only one month. Chad felt the
entanglement was attributable to the fact the
rope had been twisted by his figure-eight ring
on the first rappel, and to the lack of
attention when the rope was tossed off. The
inability to correct the problem was also the
result of rappelling at night without headlamps.
(Source: Matthew Mobley, Pelham Fire Department)
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
Throughout the day on June 17, several
expeditions passed Hiroyaki Hoshino (36) and his
companions, between 18,000 feet and 19,700 feet.
Everyone who passed Hoshino and was later
interviewed said that Hoshino looked exhausted
and shaky. A ranger patrol descending from the
summit stopped to talk to Hoshino and in no
uncertain terms tried to convince Hoshino to go
down, but were unsuccessful. It is unlikely, but
the language barrier could have been a problem
in getting the point across to Hoshino.
At the "football field" (19,500 feet) Hoshino
was too exhausted to go to the summit. His
friends elected to continue and left Hoshino.
Hoshino's friends summitted and returned for
him. Hoshino had become ataxic from altitude
sickness and exhaustion and he needed assistance
from his friends to hike down. The Japanese were
able to make it down to Denali Pass, where they
requested a rescue at 0130 on June 18.
At 0402 the LAMA helicopter and Hudson's
Cessna 206 acting as cover plane were in the air
to evacuate Hoshino. At approximately the same
time, a ground rescue team comprised of
volunteers from High Camp was climbing up to
assist the Japanese at Denali Pass.
At 0459 the LAMA landed at 18,000 feet, and
ranger Kevin Moore assisted the ataxic Hoshino
to the helicopter. Hoshino was flown to Base
camp where he was treated and stabilized.
Analysis
Hoshino overextended himself. His climbing
partners failed to recognize the situation and
react to it. Instead they elected to go to the
summit. They were also improperly prepared to
bivouac, which caused Hoshino to become
hypothermic while waiting for a rescue. (Source:
Kevin Moore, Mountaineering Ranger)
Arizona, Oak Flats
On April 6, following a bouldering contest in
the area, Paul (25) and his climbing partner
(24) went for a climb about a half mile from the
primary bouldering area, where there is some
quality granite. Paul had just completed
following a single pitch 5.9 route and was
preparing to rappel. He was wearing a seat
harness. The rope had been doubled so it could
be retrieved at the bottom. Apparently, the two
rope ends did not meet at the bottom. Within
about 30 feet of the top, Paul was rappelling
when the remaining strand pulled free. He fell
approximately 35--40 feet to the bottom.
An orthopedic physician climbing in the area
heard the yells for help and began to assess and
stabilize him while someone drove to our rescue
camp for help. The rescue team had been breaking
down from the rescue/ medical standby at the
contest and responded, notifying the local
agencies and arriving on scene within minutes.
Paul was unconscious and largely unresponsive
the entire time. He was splinted, back boarded,
insulated, intubated and I.V.s were initiated.
His breathing had to be assisted with Bag Valve
Mask. Due to the terrain and length of
evacuation, the team chose to activate the
Arizona DPS Ranger 41 from Phoenix early, to
perform a short haul extraction (litter and
attendant attached via rope underneath the
helicopter). Paul was packaged in a Bauman Bag
and extracted with a paramedic rescue team
member to a nearby Heli-Spot, where he was
turned over to Eagle Air Med and flown to
Phoenix, some 70 miles west.
His injuries included a left
occipital/parietal skull fracture and
concussion, left arm radial, ulnar and wrist
fractures, left hip fracture and left leg
tibia/fibula and ankle fractures. He was left
temporarily unable to speak. Paul was treated
and sent to surgery at Phoenix Maricopa Medical
Center, and spent about three weeks in Surgical
Intensive Care. Extremely fortunate, he is
expected to have near 100% recovery.
Analysis
The rope had been moved by the time of our
arrival but was intact. The anchor at the top
was reported as intact as was the harness. There
was no apparent equipment failure or fracture.
Certainly, this all underscores again the
value that companions and bystanders play early
in an incident. This mission also would have
taken much longer had the team not been in the
area, and Short Haul (or cable hoisting) is not
an option which is available everywhere or to
all public safety agencies. Most areas in the
country still do not have rope rescue teams who
can comfortably operate in the wilderness.
Reporting accurate information, early is
critical. It may be the difference between life
and death, but more often it is the difference
of having some residual pain or discomfort
versus having a life long limp or paraplegia or
other disability?not being able to climb
anymore.
If you are not specific with what you
perceive are the technical needs of the mission,
local agencies will many times send a local fire
department or police officer to "check it out"
before activating any technical rescue
resources.
The key elements to report to 911 (or your
local equivalent) are as follows:
1. Your buddy's condition. Is the person in a
life threatening situation? Could he or she
survive the night or a lengthy response?
2. Access to the scene. Does there appear to
be a road head (for ambulance or truck access)
or Heli-Spot (100 feet by 100 feet, no
obstructions) at least within 1/4 mile? If not,
and your climbing buddy is unconscious or has a
serious injury tell 911 that you need a
wilderness rescue team with rope skills, and
tell them that vehicles or helicopters will not
be able to get close. In the game of wilderness
rescue, this report, along with minutes, count.
3. Another consideration is whether it a
fifth class approach or fourth class with severe
exposure to access your buddy. If it is, specify
the need for a CLIMBING rope rescue team.
(Source: Tim Kovacs, Ops Leader, Maricopa County
Sheriff's Office Mountain Rescue, Central
Arizona Mountain Rescue Association)
(Editor's Note: Tim Kovacs pointed out that
an extremely small percentage of our total
missions were climbers or mountaineers. The vast
majority [99%+] were hikers and other
non-climbers who were in over their heads, and
for that reason are not reported here.)
California, Yosemite, Lembert Dome
I climbed a 5.9 variant of a 5.6 route. I
went over the crux successfully, but ran out too
far right on 5.6 slope. I place two nuts in
marginal cracks. I got to the top of the ledge,
then fell and rolled down. I broke a leg and
foot.
Analysis
I broke rules. At the top, I put my
mid-section over the ledge and reached for a
small tree. I let footing leave rocks. The
placements were marginal. Poor placement. I was
out of sight of belay. Belay saved my life, as
did my helmet, because I hit my head enough to
cause unconsciousness.
Lesson I learned: 1) Do NOT climb beyond
experience level; 2) make all placements BOMB
proof before proceeding; 3) do not remove hand
or feet from rock, even if you know you "got it
made". The climb ain't over until your butt is
hooked in on top. (Source: Douglas Hoyt - 48)
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs
Peak
On July 25, at 0100, David Gallegos and his
brother George (26) left from Covenant Height's
Camp to climb Kiener's Route (III, AI 1, 5.4) on
the East Face of Longs Peak. George had climbed
the route previously and was to show David the
way. They did not have any ropes, ice axes,
gloves, or rain gear. Both men were clothed in
all cotton, and had strap-on crampons which they
wore over cloth boots. After ascending Lamb's
Slide and crossing Broadway Ledge, George
Gallegos became confused and mistook the North
Couloir for Kiener's Route. When part way up the
North Couloir (AI 3, 5.5), George was unable to
continue because of unsteady footing in the
snow. The two called for help for about 45
minutes, after which David continued to the top
and down the Keyhole Route, where he borrowed a
cell phone to call 911. Three climbers and later
two RMNP rescue climbers assisted George
Gallegos back to the base of the East Face of
Longs Peak.
Analysis
The Gallegos brothers had insufficient
experience and inadequate equipment for an East
Face climb on Longs Peak. Unroped falls from
both Kiener's Route and the Notch Couloir have
occurred in the past and resulted in fatalities.
Unroped falls and ascents without adequate
snow/ice equipment have also resulted in
injuries and fatalities on Lamb's Slide. George
Gallegos had been rescued previously in a
similar incident on Mount Evans. (Source: Jim
Detterline, Longs Peak Supervisory Climbing
Ranger
Nevada, Red Rocks Canyon NCA
On May 2, on the fifth pitch of the Original
Route (5.9,A2) on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rock
Canyon, a climber (35) accidentally dislodged a
four foot by two foot by six inch sandstone
block that fell 100 feet before striking his
partner (34)on the back of his head and back.
The two then rappelled to the base of the route,
where the victim was placed in his sleeping bag
and his partner left to find help. The Las Vegas
Metropolitan Police Department SAR unit
responded, and the victim was successfully
evacuated by litter and helicopter. In addition
to the injuries to his head, he had a tension
pneumothorax.
Analysis
Loose rock is common on many of the routes
here, even the ones that experience a lot of
traffic. The victim's helmet was deeply scored,
and given the laceration on his scalp under the
helmet and the size and force of the falling
block, he almost certainly would have been
killed had he not been wearing a helmet.
Being able to self-rescue to the bottom of
the route, even though the victim was not able
to walk out, made a reasonably timely rescue
possible. It may have prevented the victim from
becoming hypothermic or developing a life
threatening tension pneumothorax during the
course of what would have been a complex night
time big wall rescue. (Source: James Roberts,
Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Department SAR)
(Editor's Note: Two other accidents were
reported from this area. One involved a hiker
[65] who found himself in a climbing situation,
desperately stranded as a result of separating
from his partners without telling them. He was
located and flown to safety. The other victim
was a novice ice climber who was " bouldering"
on ice while his partner prepared to climb. The
victim fell ten feet, fracturing his leg. A cell
phone contact with the rescue team probably
prevented hypothermia, but, as they noted,
cellular phones cannot take the place of good
judgment.)
Oregon, Mount Hood, South Side
On April 4, a climber (32) was glissading
below Crater Rock when his crampons snagged on
hard snow, resulting in a fractured tibia.
(Source: Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue)
(Editor's Note: Perhaps we should put New
Hampshire guide George Hurley's mantra on all
crampons: "There is no good reason for
glissading with sharp spikes on our feet."
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