The American Alpine Club E-News: November 2001

Dear AAC member,

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Best wishes for the holidays,

Hilary Maitland
Editor
aan@americanalpineclub.org

In this issue:

AAC Prevails on Mount Rainer Management Plan

Lou Dawson Added to Annual Meeting Program

Coupon Book Ships Soon

Translators Needed for the AAJ

New Titles Available at the AAC Library

Section News and Events

Events

AAC Member Contest “Where Did You Bivy Last Night”

AAC Prevails on Mount Rainier Management Plan

As a result of concerted advocacy efforts by the AAC, Mount Rainier National Park’s Final General Management Plan has removed a controversial proposal to prohibit climbers and backpackers from parking at trailheads and major parking lots and requiring them to use and pay for a shuttle system during peak seasons. While the AAC supports shuttle systems within the National Parks as a way to reduce pollution and improve congestion, we rejected this proposal since it discriminated unfairly against overnight backcountry visitors and raised significant concerns regarding climber health and safety.

The Park’s own data indicate that most visitors drive through the Park, stop briefly to take photographs or tour a visitor center, and leave within a few hours. These visitors contribute most to crowded roads and parking lots and are easily accommodated by a shuttle system since they bring little equipment with them and are gone by sunset. In contrast, climbers and backpackers usually transport a large quantity of gear, leave and return to the trailhead at all hours, and frequently adjust schedules due to weather, equipment problems, and accidents. These problems would have made it extremely difficult to design and operate an effective shuttle system for overnight Park visitors.

The Final General Management Plan calls for developing a shuttle system for peak season when the parking lots are full. All Park visitors will be able to use the trailhead parking lots on a first-come, first-served basis until full, at which time all visitors will use a shuttle system. The AAC will monitor further planning of this parking and transportation system to ensure that it meets the needs of climbers.

The Final General Management Plan also contains a framework for managing use of Park trails and backcountry areas. The zoning system is designed to protect solitude in more remote areas while accommodating higher use in currently high use areas. The popular Muir Snowfield/Disappointment Cleaver climbing route has been placed in a High Use Climbing zone, while the Emmons/Winthrop, Kautz and Fuhrer Finger climbing routes have been placed in a Moderate Use Climbing zone. The AAC will continue to monitor the development of specific capacities and desired visitor experiences for these zones as Rainier National Park begins work developing a revised Backcountry Management Plan.

The Final General Management Plan has been posted on the NPS planning website at http://www.nps.gov/planning/mora/finalgmp/home.htm

Lou Dawson Added to Annual Meeting Program

Noted ski mountaineer and author Lou Dawson has been added to the growing list of speakers at the AAC’s 100th Anniversary Annual Meeting this February in Snowbird. Dawson is the author of “Wild Snow,” the critically acclaimed historical guidebook to North American ski mountaineering published by the AAC Press, as well as the first person to ski all 54 14,000-foot peaks in Colorado. His multi-media presentation focuses on a trip he took this year which replicated the Trooper Traverse, a winter crossing between Leadville and Aspen, Colorado that was first completed in February 1944 by 10th Mountain Division ski troops. Dawson remarked about the trip, “Our recreation of the trip turned out to be one of the best times I’ve had in my career as a ski mountaineer. There is nothing like combining Colorado’s mountains, snow, skis, good companions and rich history – those are the ingredients for the perfect ski mountaineering trip.”

To view a list of other speakers scheduled for the Annual Meeting see http://www.americanalpineclub.org/special_programs/speakersschedule.htm

Discounted lodging rates have been negotiated with Snowbird for the Annual Meeting. A limited number of rooms for Friday (2/1) and Saturday (2/2) nights at the Cliff Lodge are available for only $99 per night (plus tax) for single or double occupancy. Rates from Tuesday (1/29) through Tuesday (2/5) are only $150 per night (plus tax), subject to availability. Lodging reservations must be made prior to January 1, 2002, by calling Snowbird’s Central Reservations Office directly at 800.453.3000. You must inform the reservations agent that you are part of The American Alpine Club’s group to obtain these special discounted rates. Other reservation policies apply.

Space is limited at the Annual Meeting, so register now and receive the early registration discount. All registrations received after January 11th will be charged a late registration fee, so be sure to get your form in early.

For more information about the meeting, click on http://www.americanalpineclub.org/special_programs/Snowbird.htm

Coupon Book IN THE MAIL !

Be sure to hold off your holiday shopping until you get this year's Climbers' Coupon Book! It will arrive in the next few weeks and offers you special discounts on:

Trips, classes, and lodging from Absolute Adventure, Colorado Mountain School, High Peaks Mountain Adventures, Mountain Home Vacation Rentals, Ouray Victorian Inn, Talkeetna Air Taxi, and Wilderness Medicine Outfitters!

Gear and apparel from Altrec.com, Barrel Mountaineering, Cloudveil, Crazy Creek, Cyberspace Avalanche Center, EMS, Helly Hansen, Ibex, Kelty, LaSportiva, Leki, Marmot, Metolius, Mountain Child, Mountain Gear, Mountain Tools, Mountainsmith, MSR, National Geographic Maps, Outdoor Research/Wild Roses, Shoreline Mountain Products, SMC, Trango, and Ushba Mountain Works!

Publications and cards from Elevation, FalconGuides, Heron Dance, Pondaray, and Sharp End Books.

Look for your Coupon Book, then use it to make your holiday shopping a breeze.

Translators Needed for the AAJ

The AAJ seeks translators for Spanish, French, German, and Italian notes from our European contributors. Volunteers should be fluent in both English and the pertinent tongue, as well as conversant in mountaineering terminology in both languages. Interested individuals can contact Christian Beckwith at mailto:aaj@wyoming.com.

New Titles Available for Members at the AAC Library

American Rock: Region, rock, and culture in American Climbing

by Don Mellor

Enduring Patagonia

by Gregory Couch

Courage and Misfortune Vol. 1 & 2: Mountaineers Anthology Series

The Coldest March: Scott's Fatal Antarctic Expedition

by Susan Solomon

Moving Mountains: Lessons on Life & Leadership

by Reinhold Messner

The Second Death of George Mallory: Enigma & Spirit of Mt Everest

by Reinhold Messner

Book of Camping Knots

by Peter Owen

Black Canyon Rock Climbs

by Robbie Williams

The World Awaits: How to Travel Far & Well

by Paul Otteson

Alpine Ice & Rock Guide to SW & Central Montana

by Ronald Brunckhorst

Secrets of the Notch: Guide to Rock & Ice Climbing on Cannon Cliff & Crags of Franconia Notch by Jon Sykes

Mexico's Volcanoes: Climbing Guide, 3rd Edition

by R.J. Secor

Bishop Area Rock Climbs

by John Moynier

Owens River Gorge Climbs

by Marty Lewis

Sport Climbs of Sinks Canyon

by Paul Piana

Heart of the Antarctic

by Ernest Shackleton

Yosemite Big Walls: Supertopos

by Chris McNamara

Wilderness Medical Society: Emergency Care

edited by William W. Forgey M.D.

Traveler's Companion: Nepal

by Chris Taylor

Antarctica: The Falklands & South Georgia by Sara Wheeler

For details on how to check out a book by e-mail, contact the AAC Library at mailto:library@americanalpineclub.org.

Section News and Events

Check out your local Section's Website and listserver. Please remember that if you update your e-mail with the Club, it does not automatically update you with your Section.

ALASKA – Section Chair Danny Kost

mailto:dkost@pophost.alaska.net

The Alaska Section nominated new officers at their last meeting. They are: Vice Section Chair, Dave Hart; Local Access and Issues Coordinator, Harry Hunt; and Secretary/Treasurer, James Dietzmann. The Meeting and Events Coordinator position is still vacant.

These individuals volunteered to fill the positions until a formal election takes place. During the next few months, the officers will meet and set a course for the Alaska Section. We will schedule events for the 2002 season, and define responsibilities for the officers. We will make a presentation to the members at the Spring meeting, and with their agreement move forward. Also at the Spring meeting, we hope to have a formal election of officers.

CASCADE – Section Chair Peter Ackroyd

http://cas.alpineclub.org

Check the Cascade Section website for upcoming events in January.

CENTRAL ROCKIES – Section Chair Greg Seivers http://crs.alpineclub.org

Subscribe to the Central Rockies Section list service and receive all the Section news. Sign up by visiting http://crs.alpineclub.org.

Central Rockies Section Supports Bulgarian Alpine Club

It took a few months to get there, but the Bulgarian Alpine Club has taken receipt of 100 pounds of used climbing equipment donated by the Central Rockies Section. The Bulgarian Club sent a letter of thanks to all CRS members of who donated equipment.

Midwest – Section Chair Ben Kweton

mailto:ben_kweton@yahoo.com.

March 2, 2002

Midwest Section Dinner, Chicago Yacht Club, Belmont Harbor, Illinois. The Chicago Mountaineering Club and the Midwest Section of The American Alpine Club have joined forces to present the 2002 Annual Section Dinner. The event will serve as the annual meeting for the CMC and the Midwest Section of the AAC. Our speaker for the event is climbing legend Jim Donini. Activities will include membership drives, a silent auction, and a well-stocked raffle. Updates will be available through http://www.cmcwebsite.org. Invitations will be sent to Midwest Section members of the AAC and CMC members. Any other inquiries may be directed to Midwest Section Chair Ben Kweton at 847.367.4423 or mailto:ben_kweton@yahoo.com.

NEW ENGLAND – Section Chair Bill Atkinson, Vice Chair Nancy Savickas

http://www.atkinsopht.com/aacnesct.htm

March 16, 2002

The New England Section will host the Seventh Annual N.E. Section dinner in the Boston area. As always we hope to hit 100 for dinner; last spring we came close at 96! Our special guest this year will be Andy Tuthill of Hanover, New Hampshire who will regale us "From the Pawtuckoways to the Karakoram; Thirty Years of Climbing". Our exhibit will feature the acclaimed AAJ Photo Collection, which is on a national tour.

We have, at last, a simple New England Section webpage: http://www.atkinsopht.com/aacnesct.htm

Events

December 6

Ed Webster's Farewell to Boulder slide show, 8 p.m. at Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder. $5 at the door.

December 7

Lizzy Scully, AAC Grant recipient, will present a slide show, 7p.m. at the Estes Park Mountain Shop . She will be collecting used fleece jackets and wool sweaters for the porters of the Baltoro Region of the Karakorum Range.

Visit our new Event Page on the AAC website for complete and updated information. Please send event information to mailto:aan@americanalpineclub.org.

“Where Did You Bivy Last Night”

Check out the “Where Did You Bivy Last Night” contest. Members can send in photos and stories about a memorable bivy and have a chance to win a bivy sack from Outdoor Research and The North Face or a jacket from Helly Hansen. Details are on the website.

E-News Policies

In order to protect the interests of our subscribers the E-News established the following policies:

-The AAC office in Golden is the only source of outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients cannot respond to or initiate messages to the list.

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-E-News focuses on timely and important news of interest to members nationwide.

Send comments, suggestions, or news items to mailto:aan@americanalpineclub.org.