The American Alpine Club E-News: July 2002
Dear AAC Member,
This is the time of the year when our phones
begin ringing and one question is asked with
great frequency: "When will I receive my copies
of the Journal and Accidents?" The books are due
from the printer in September, but act now to
send us your change of address information so
that your copies will not be delayed. These
books are not forwarded by the Postal Service,
so be sure to send any address changes to Erin
Byerly at: mailto:ebyerly@americanalpineclub.org.
Also, though invitations to the upcoming AAC
Centennial Celebration are in the mail along
with the summer issue of American Alpine News,
to help plan your trip we have included program
information and a link to our downloadable
registration form. Don't miss out on this
once-in-a-lifetime event! Register today and
avoid any possibility of missing out in the
event the program sells out.
Wishing you all the best on your summer
climbing adventures.
Regards,
Lloyd Athearn
Managing Editor
mailto:lathearn@americanalpineclub.org
To change your e-mail address or subscribe to
the E-News, go to the AAC website (http://www.americanalpineclub.org/)
and click on "E-News," then "Join List" for
instructions. To change your mailing address or
other membership information in our database,
please contact Erin Byerly, our membership
services coordinator, at: mailto:ebyerly@americanalpineclub.org.
In this issue:
CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION REGISTRATION MATERIALS
NOW AVAILABLE
CASCADE SECTION CHAIR UPDATES CONDITIONS IN
NEPAL
DUDLEY WOLFE'S BODY FOUND AT THE BASE OF K2
MOUNTAIN SUMMIT: EXTREME LANDSCAPES ON TAP IN
BANFF
NEW HOTEL JOINS AAC HUT SYSTEM
SALE UNDER WAY ON WOMEN'S AAC T-SHIRTS
SECTION NEWS/COMING EVENTS
E-NEWS POLICIES
CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION REGISTRATION
MATERIALS NOW AVAILABLE
Help celebrate the AAC's 100th birthday at
the Centennial Celebration on Saturday,
September 28 in Golden, Colorado. The
celebration will feature an afternoon of short
programs at the American Mountaineering Center
followed by dinner and a presentation by Tami
Knight at the Sheraton Denver West Hotel.
The Centennial Celebration is a great
opportunity to meet individuals who played
instrumental roles in shaping the Club during
the past century, mingle with top climbers and
representatives of several international
mountaineering associations, and tour the
American Mountaineering Center facilities,
including our new conference center and climbing
wall.
The festivities kick off at 12:30 p.m. with a
reception in the Club's internationally renowned
library. Then at 2 p.m., programs begin upstairs
in the auditorium. The afternoon program
includes the following speakers:
DEE MOLENAAR: MOUNTAIN ART FROM CHINA TO
EUROPE TO AMERICA AND BEYOND. A look at Oriental
and Alpine-American mountain art, including some
of his own landscapes.
JAMES H. POWELL: THE UNCLIMBED PLACES.
Descriptions of the little-known mountain ranges
of the world.
JOHN SPENCER: MOUNTAINS OUT OF THIS WORLD. A
glimpse into other mountain ranges of the Solar
System.
BETSY WHITE: CLUB CONTROVERSIES. A discussion
of the important controversies that occurred
within the Club during its initial century.
At 5:30 p.m., we begin the reception at the
nearby Sheraton Denver West Hotel, and at 7
p.m., we seat for dinner, which incorporates
menu items from the very first AAC Annual
Meeting dinner in 1903! Afterwards Canadian
humorist Tami Knight keeps the evening lively
with "GOSH AND AREN'T WE SERIOUS," a
presentation she describes as "an ontological
alpine presentation with sub-textual centennial
analysis intended to amuse, but not provoke."
Complete information about the event,
including lodging and ground transportation
discounts, is posted on our website at: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/Centennial.htm.
You can download a registration form at: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/CentennialRegForm.pdf.
CASCADE SECTION CHAIR UPDATES CONDITIONS IN
NEPAL
[Editor's Note: Cascade Section Chair Peter
Ackroyd, recently back from a month of climbing
in Nepal, responded to the State Department
travel warnings included in the June E-News by
saying he felt the warnings seemed "overstated."
Peter provides the following report on his trip,
which was the first to occur under the new
mountaineering regulations.]
I would like to add to the comments about
Nepal in the previous E-News and the warnings
about travel there.
Jim Frush and I recently returned from Nepal
and took advantage of the newly available peaks
and permitting process. With regard to the
Maoists, we knew about the Makalu expedition
problems, but if you take time to find out where
the main conflicts are occurring you can have a
safe and very enjoyable experience. If you
choose to go through areas where the Maoists are
known to have strongholds (like the areas the
Makalu expeditions went through), then you take
that risk! You only have to go on the Internet
or talk to local people (including trekking
agencies) to find out the places that are
considered unsafe. Do not believe everything the
Nepal government tells you and do your own
research. Jim and I experienced no problems and
benefited from the lack of tourists in the area.
Unfortunately, the local people are suffering
economically because of the bad press, and that
only opens the door for the Maoists to spread
their influence.
We were given the first permit under the new
regulations and the first ever for a peak in
Upper Mustang, Gaugiri (6180m). No one had any
idea what it looked like, which added to the
adventure. We saw many excellent peaks between
6000–7000m in the same area that are now
available for climbing and that will take you
into places that no one has explored. It is now
cheaper to get an official climbing permit to
Mustang than to just go trekking there. No
special Mustang fees and no Liaison Officer are
required. And, $500 of the $1,500 fee is
refundable if you bring out your non-degradable
garbage to the nearest check post. We received
the refund before we left Kathmandu.
A number of other previously restricted areas
also are now open, and these are areas with few
people and no Maoists (at present!). We heard of
more people saying they enjoyed the lack of
crowds and had no problems than those who
experienced problems. I would encourage you to
take a close look at the new list of peaks, make
a first ascent, and go have an adventure away
from the crowds! The people of Nepal need you
and will make you very welcome.
Web sites that give good coverage of the
events in Nepal include:
http://www.nepalnow.com/
http://www.nepalnews.net/
http://www.himalmag.com/
DUDLEY WOLFE'S BODY FOUND AT THE BASE OF K2
By Jennifer Jordan and Jeff Rhoades
Our team had a diversion from climbing this
week when we discovered the remains of American
Dudley Wolfe, who died here in 1939 without a
trace – until now.
While the British were hot in pursuit of
conquering Mount Everest during the first half
of the 20th century, the Americans focused their
attention on the world’s second-highest
mountain, 8611-meter K2. Tucked high and deep in
the Karakoram Range of northern Pakistan, K2 is
known in the climbing world as "The Savage
Mountain." It is a well-earned moniker. Though
more than a thousand have stood atop Everest,
fewer than 200 have climbed K2, nearly 50 having
died trying. Dudley Wolfe of Boston was the
first.
An American playboy in the Gatsby mode,
according to his nephew, Wolfe apparently was
chosen for the 1939 American K2 expedition by
leader Fritz Wiessner on the strength of his
bank account rather than his climbing skills.
Nonetheless, Wolfe was reportedly dogged in his
climbing. He reached nearly 8000 meters before
deep snows bogged him down and he returned to
Camp VIII at 7800 meters to await Wiessner.
By the time Wiessner returned, exhausted and
unsuccessful in his summit bid, Wolfe had been
in what we now refer to as "the death zone"
above 25,000 feet for more than a week. When he,
Wiessner and Sherpa Pasang Kikuli started their
descent, Wolfe trod on the rope, nearly killing
them all. Wiessner decided to leave him at Camp
VII, saying he would send climbing Sherpas to
bring him down. But, by the time the Sherpas
returned, Wolfe had been above 7000 meters for
nearly two weeks. He emerged from his tent, ill
and soiled, insisting he needed a day to collect
himself before descending. He and the Sherpas
were never seen again.
Jeff Rhoads and I, who are on K2 this summer
producing our documentary, “The Women of K2,”
were walking on a remote stretch of the
Godwin-Austin glacier at the base of K2 when we
discovered what looked to be human bones. As we
searched the area, we found it flooded with
clues.
First, near the bones we found pieces of an
old canvas tent. Obviously, our man died in or
near his tent, and long before the days of nylon
and rip stop. Then we found a cook pot and lid
engraved with a “Made in India” logo, indicating
his expedition occurred before partition in 1947
and the creation of Pakistan.
When we returned the next day after the sun
had melted off the latest snow, we found the
definitive links: large, double-layer pants with
a label from an old clothier in Cambridge,
Massachusetts, a canvas and leather leg gaiter,
and, casually leaning against a rock as if
waiting to be found, a canvas and leather mitten
with "WOLFE" written in clear block letters near
the cuff.
When contacted from base camp, members of the
Wolfe family expressed bewildered relief that
Dudley finally had been found. They presently
are making arrangements to travel to K2 to
conduct a formal service at the base of the
mountain.
Sixty-three years of glacial churning and the
mystery of Dudley Wolfe is finally over. All
indications are that he died alone, in his tent,
and that the brave Sherpas who tried one of the
most daring mountain rescues in Himalayan
history were unsuccessful in their heroic
attempts. While the remains of Sherpa Pasang
Kikuli were found in 1993, the other two have
not been found.
MOUNTAIN SUMMIT: EXTREME LANDSCAPES ON TAP
IN BANFF
If you love the mountains, you won't want to
miss the 2002 Banff Mountain Summit: Extreme
Landscape, scheduled for October 27-29 at the
Banff Centre. The Summit, presented by Parks
Canada, will explore the issues and the
inspiration of the world's extreme landscapes
through three days of seminars, lectures,
performances and exhibitions.
Speakers as diverse as award-winning author
Gretel Ehrlich, mountaineer and parliamentarian
Reinhold Messner, author and ethnobotanist Wade
Davis, climber and founder of Patagonia Yvon
Chouinard and specialist on sacred mountains
Edwin Bernbaum will join mountain artists and
performers in presentations that will stimulate
your mind and inspire your spirit.
Summit passes are $200 CAD and include a copy
of the book Extreme Landscape: The Lure of
Mountain Spaces, a collection of essays on
mountain themes by festival guests and others.
To order tickets or for more information,
call 800.413.8368 or visit their website at:
http://www.banffmountainfestivals.ca/.
NEW HOTEL JOINS AAC HUT SYSTEM
The AAC Huts Committee is proud to announce
the addition of the Four Points Sheraton
Silverthorne Hotel to the growing list of
lodging facilities offering AAC members
discounts. Surrounded by 13,000 and 14,000-foot
peaks, this Colorado hotel offers 160 rooms,
easy access to Breckenridge and Keystone ski
areas, a pool and hot tub, and a great location
for acclimatization for those just arriving in
the high country. AAC members' rates are:
$39/night June-Aug, $49/night Sept- Nov, and
$69/night Sun-Thurs or $99/night Fri-Sat Dec-
March. Call 800.757.7321 or visit: http://www.sunstonehotels.com/.
Other facilities participating in the Huts
System are listed on the AAC's website at:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/programs/ranch_hut.shtml.
SALE UNDER WAY ON WOMEN'S AAC T-SHIRTS
Women's fitted AAC T-shirts make a great gift
for your family, friends, or partner. At only
$9, they are 40 percent off their normal $16
list price. These form-fitting, great-looking
T-shirts are specially designed for women. Chose
from two designs: black T-shirt with a white AAC
logo on the chest or white T-shirt with a black
logo. Shirts are available in S, M, L, and XL.
Add $3.50 domestic shipping and handling fee for
the first shirt and $.50 for each additional
item. Call 303.384.0110 to order.
SECTION NEWS/COMING EVENTS
Southeast Section Website/Events
Southeast Section Chair Jeff Botz announces
the launch of a section website at: http://www.smokymountainsection.org/.
The site is in its infancy, but provides updates
on scheduled section activities, including a
section meeting on Saturday, July 20 at
Tablerock Mountain on the eastern side of
Linville Gorge, a similar section meeting on
August 17 at Pilot Mountain, and a section
dinner in September in either Ashville or
Knoxville. For more information, contact Jeff at
either mailto:jeff@smokymountainsection.org or
mailto:botzie5@aol.com.
Cascade Section Survey/Events
Cascade Section Chair Peter Ackroyd received
about 100 responses to a questionnaire sent out
recently to section members. Half of those
responding expressed an interest in meeting to
help re-organize the section, so please put the
evening of September 21 on your calendar for an
event in Leavenworth. The time and place will be
set soon, but contact Peter at mailto:pdack1@attbi.com
for details if you can attend. Also, check the
AAC web site for more information. One question
on the survey was whether the section should
form a closer relationship with The
Mountaineers. The majority of members were not
in favor of doing so. Peter will summarize the
survey and convey it later to section members.
Thank you to all who responded.
The Cascade Section also has scheduled a
slide show by Carlos Buhler on Friday, December
13. More details will be forthcoming.
Avalanche Center Fundraiser
Barbecued salmon, bluegrass, and Frisbees
will be in the air September 6 at the CAIC
Avalanche Jam at the American Mountaineering
Center in Golden, Colorado. This first-annual
fundraising party is to benefit the Colorado
Avalanche Information Center, which provides
avalanche forecasting and education to Colorado
backcountry skiers, snowboarders and
mountaineers. The menu will include wild Kodiak
Island Salmon, beer from New Belgium brewery,
and bluegrass music by the Ogallala String Band.
The event will take place from 5-10 p.m. on
the south lawn and courtyard of the
Mountaineering Center and in adjacent Parfet
Park. The cost is $30 in advance and $35 at the
gate. (Ages 12 and under are free.) In case of
rain, the festivities will move into the
Mountaineering Center conference facilities. The
fundraiser, emceed by KOA's Biff America, also
will include a silent auction and door prizes.
It is being organized by Boulder-based
Backcountry Access, Inc., a leading manufacturer
and distributor of avalanche safety equipment.
For more information or to order tickets,
contact BCA at 303.417.1345 or mailto:info@bcaccess.com.
E-NEWS POLICIES
In order to protect the interests of our
subscribers, we have established the following
E-News policies:
The AAC office in Golden is the only source
of outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients
cannot respond to or initiate messages to the
list.
The AAC will not sell member e-mail addresses
to anyone for any purpose and will have no
commercial advertising of any kind in E-News.
The E-News focuses on timely and important
news of interest to members worldwide.
Send comments, suggestions or news items to
mailto:lathearn@americanalpineclub.org.
|
