The American Alpine Club E-News: December 2002

Dear AAC Member,

A frequent refrain from non-members (and even some members) is "What exactly does the AAC do?" As a multifaceted organization providing benefits and services, this is a harder question to answer in a sentence than a one-issue organization. Yet the answer is unmistakable: a lot.

In this issue of AAC E-News, we highlight a major award the AAC jointly received from the Alaska Region of the National Park Service for work assisting in the development of the Clean Mountain Cans on Denali. Club members also have made recent contributions to the fields of wilderness management, social science research, and adventure writing, to name but a few. The agenda for the Boston Annual Meeting is coming together, and several aspiring climbers recently received grants to help fund major climbs. Finally, our sections are active in issues ranging from trail projects to access issues.

As you can see from this issue of E-News, the AAC and its members are constantly at work helping climbers and the sport of climbing. But, as we enter the time when people ponder resolutions for the coming year, it may be time to consider asking yourself what you can give back to the Club, not just what you get from being a member.

Wishing you happy climbing in the New Year.

Regards,

Lloyd Athearn
Managing Editor
mailto:lathearn@americanalpineclub.org

To change your e-mail address or subscribe to the E-News, go to the AAC website (http://www.americanalpineclub.org/) and click on "E-News," then "Join List" for instructions. To change your mailing address or other membership information in our database, please contact Erin Byerly, our membership services coordinator, at mailto:ebyerly@americanalpineclub.org.

In this issue:

AAC RECEIVES "2002 ALASKA EXCELLENCE AWARD" FOR DENALI CMCS

WORLDCLASS CLIMBERS TO SPEAK AT BOSTON ANNUAL MEETING

COMMENTS NEEDED ON MOUNT RAINIER FEE INCREASE

PAKISTAN CONTINUES DISCOUNTED PEAK FEES

AAC INFLUENCES SCHOLARLY JOURNALS, CLIMBING PRESS

YOUTH CLIMBING GRANTS ANNOUNCED

CLUB WRITERS CONTINUE TO GARNER AWARDS

AAC SEEKS REPRESENTATIVE TO UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION

SECTION NEWS/COMING EVENTS

E-NEWS POLICIES

AAC RECEIVES "2002 ALASKA EXCELLENCE AWARD" FOR DENALI CMCS

The American Alpine Club was honored recently as a co-recipient of the "2002 Alaska Excellence Award" by National Park Service Alaska Regional Director Robert Arnberger for its multi-year effort helping develop the Clean Mountain Cans used in Denali National Park and Preserve. The Denali Clean Mountain Can project was deemed to have made the most significant contribution to resource stewardship in the Alaska Region during 2002.

The Clean Mountain Can was the brainchild of AAC member and Denali Lead Climbing Ranger Roger Robinson, who long wanted a way to clean up human waste on Mount McKinley. The AAC Conservation Committee provided the bulk of funding to develop the canisters, including a $3,400 grant in 2001 to fund development of 50 prototype canisters and related supplies, and a subsequent $3,958 grant in 2002 for purchase of second-generation CMCs that were used last season. In addition to funding development of the canisters, the AAC also provided on-mountain field-testing assistance in 2001.

Based on two seasons of field testing, the Clean Mountain Cans will be required equipment in the future for all West Buttress climbers going above the 14,200-foot camp, according to Robinson. CMCs are encouraged for use by climbers in other parts of the Park. The NPS is funding the purchase of additional canisters necessary to make the program mandatory.

The award was presented jointly to the Denali Mountaineering Rangers, the AAC and the Access Fund at a December 13 ceremony in Anchorage. Conservation Committee member Steve Davis, an initial proponent of the program, represented the AAC at the ceremony along with Board member Charlie Sassara and Alaska Section Chair Danny Kost. Most of the NPS representatives present, including Robinson, South District Ranger Daryl Miller, and Ranger Gordy Kito, also are Club members.

WORLDCLASS CLIMBERS TO SPEAK AT BOSTON ANNUAL MEETING

Some of the biggest names in mountaineering will be speaking at the AAC's Annual Meeting scheduled for Friday, February 28 and Saturday, March 1 at the Westin Waltham Hotel in suburban Boston.

Friday night's program will celebrate the 40th anniversary of the first American ascent of Mount Everest, with slide show presentations by Jim Whittaker and Tom Hornbein. Whittaker was the first American to summit Everest, while Hornbein was part of the duo that first climbed the West Ridge and did the first traverse over the peak. Both will sign copies of their books at the meeting.

Saturday evening's speaker will be Carlos Carsolio, the Mexican alpinist who was the fourth person ever to climb the 14 8000-meter peaks, several of which he climbed via new routes or solo. Carsolio also has an impressive record of cutting-edge ascents in the Himalayas.

Day program speakers still are being confirmed, but will include Carlos Buhler and Raphael Slawinski. Buhler recently returned from China where he completed the first ascent of Sepu Kangri, but will focus his talk on ascents of peaks between 3000 and 7000 meters. Slawinski is a top mixed climber who wrote the lead article in the 2002 American Alpine Journal about the historical development of mixed climbing.

Registration forms and information will be mailed to members in early January and also will be posted on the AAC's website: http://www.americanalpineclub.org. Special discounted lodging rates have been obtained for $99 per night (+ tax) for single or double-occupancy at the Westin Waltham-Boston Hotel. Reservations must be made before Thursday, February 13 by calling 1.800.937.8461 and identifying your reservation with the American Alpine Club Annual Meeting.

COMMENTS NEEDED ON MOUNT RAINIER FEE INCREASE

Climbers have until January 22 to comment on Mount Rainier National Park's proposed doubling of the mountaineering fee to $30 per climb. The AAC is reviewing the fee increase proposal to determine how much, if any, of the increase may be appropriate. Several members forwarded comments to the AAC in response to the article in the November E-News, and the Club is considering those comments along with additional research as we formulate an official response.

Members interested in responding individually about the proposed fee increase should read the Park's justification document, which is posted at http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/costrecovery.htm. Comments on the proposed fee change can be submitted by email to mailto:mora_climbing_fees@nps.gov or may be sent by postal mail to:

Chief Ranger Jill Hawk
Mount Rainier National Park
Star Route
Tahoma Woods WA 98304-9751

PAKISTAN CONTINUES DISCOUNTED PEAK FEES

To help celebrate the 50th anniversaries of the first ascents of Nanga Parbat and K2 and to counter a continued slump in tourism, Pakistan’s Ministry of Tourism will continue to offer discounted peak fees through the 2004 climbing season, according to multiple sources in the Pakistani tourism industry.

Fifty-percent discounts initially were offered for 2002 in celebration of the International Year of the Mountains. However, despite the lower peak fees, the number of climbers and trekkers visiting Pakistan fell dramatically in 2002. Other incentives, such as simplifying climbing and trekking procedures and easy availability of visas, also may be under discussion to help return tourism levels to previous levels.

A more thorough review of the 2002 climbing season in Pakistan and peak fees for 2003 is contained in the Winter 2003 issue of the American Alpine News, which will be mailed to members in January.

AAC INFLUENCES SCHOLARLY JOURNALS, CLIMBING PRESS

A law review article about the historical use of fixed anchors written by Deputy Director Lloyd Athearn and former policy intern Aaron Hill, as well as historical research information posted on our website, was cited in a recent article in the International Journal of Wilderness about possible resolution of the fixed anchors in wilderness debate. The article, which should appear shortly in the Vermont Journal of Environmental Law, outlines the historical use of fixed climbing anchors, the development of wilderness thought, and the crucial role leading climbers played in the development of the Wilderness Act.

Accident data compiled in "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" played a central role in an article about the self-perceptions of climbers regarding their first aid, safety and rescue skills published by Safety Committee member Aram Attarian in a recent issue of Wilderness and Environmental Medicine.

And, Rock and Ice magazine has begun serializing excerpts from "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" in its magazine. The excerpts showcase the valuable safety education information contained in this best-selling book, which members receive free each year, and which is available in bookstores or via our distributor, Mountaineers Books, for $10.

YOUTH CLIMBING GRANTS ANNOUNCED

Seven up-and-coming climbers will get a financial shot in the arm for climbing expeditions around the world thanks to grants recently awarded from the AAC's Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant program, which supports climbers 25 years old and younger. A total of $3,000 was awarded in the fall grant cycle.

"We are very excited to help these young climbers attain climbing goals and have adventures that they would not normally be able to achieve," said Mountaineering Fellowships Fund Committee Chair Eiichi Fukushima. "Whether supporting 13-year-old prodigy Megan Emmons or the brother-and-sister team of Kristin and Michael Schaedel, the entire AAC is very proud to support young climbers and, through them, the future of climbing."

Megan Emmons (age 13) of Alamosa, Colorado received $300 from the Rick Mosher Fund to attempt, with her father, either a repeat of the Sun Line or a traverse of Cerro Piramidal in Aconcagua, Argentina.

Rosco Mattson (age 25) of Port Angles, Washington received $300 from the John Hudson Fund for alpine ascents around the Tokositna Glacier in the Alaska Range.

John O'Connor (age 20) of Ft. Collins, Colorado; Kristin Schaedel (age 19) of Portland, Oregon; and Michael Schaedel (age 21) of Missoula, Montana each received $600 from the REI Challenge and Boyd Everett Funds. They will attempt either Belligerence or a possible first ascent on Incisor, Combatant in the Waddington Range.

Johnny Soderstrom (age 24) of Trapper Creek, Alaska and Jared Vilhauer (age 22) of Ft. Collins, Colorado received $300 each for their attempt of Mt. Geridine via the northwest route in the Tordrillo Mountains, Alaska.

CLUB WRITERS CONTINUE TO GARNER AWARDS

2002 was a fine year for AAC authors. In addition to the several Banff Book Festival awards noted previously, AAC member Robert "Bud" Roper won the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature for his book, "Fatal Mountaineer," and AAC member Cam Burns won the "Best Travel Book" award from the North American Travel Journalists Association for "The Shoes of Kilimanjaro & Other Oddventure Travel Stories."

"Fatal Mountaineer" tells the story of Willi Unsoeld's obsession with Nanda Devi and the climb he would attempt with his daughter of her namesake mountain that would claim her life at 24,000 feet on the West Face. "In examining what was a very complicated expedition, Roper presents an even-handed analysis of the various personalities of its members and the difficulties they all faced," said judge Mikel Vause. "By linking together anger and happiness; humility and bravado; triumph and tragedy, Roper aptly paints a compassionate picture of a very complex situation as a window into the life of Willi Unsoeld, a very complex individual."

"The Shoes of Kilimanjaro & other Oddventure Stories" is a collection of 13 of Burns's most popular travel essays, which includes humorous stories about adventure travel in Africa, Asia, North and South America, Australia, Great Britain and the Caribbean. A condensed version of the book's title story also won a "Best of Blue" award as the "Best Back Page" story in the magazine's five-year history.

Congratulations Bud and Cam.

AAC SEEKS REPRESENTATIVE TO UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION

The AAC is looking for a member with knowledge of climbing safety equipment who is able to travel at his/her expense to various international destinations to represent the Club on the UIAA Safety Commission. The Safety Commission develops and monitors standards for mountaineering and climbing equipment, and reviews mountaineering and climbing accidents to determine whether standards are sufficient, and accredits laboratories that test mountaineering equipment to ensure that test results are in accordance with UIAA standards. If interested, please contact President Jim Frush at mailto:frusc@gth-law.com.

SECTION NEWS/COMING EVENTS

International – Washburn Photo Exhibit

The Michael Hoppen Gallery in London will be showing "From the Edge: The Mountain Photography of Bradford Washburn" between February 13 and April 19. This is Washburn's first showing of his work in the UK, and it is timed to coincide with the release of "On High," a National Geographic book about his life and work. All of the awe-inspiring photographs on display are available for sale. For more information about the exhibit, visit http://www.michaelhoppen-photo.com/washburn/washburn.htm.

Cascade Section – Central Asia Institute Seattle Show

AAC member Greg Mortenson, founder of the Central Asia Institute, will discuss his organizaiton's educational and community projects in the Karakoram at 7 p.m. on Thursday, January 9 at the REI Flagship store, 222 Yale Avenue, North, in Seattle. Greg also will discuss his travels in Pakistan and Afghanistan since 9/11. A $5 donation is requested at the door. For more information, call 206.223.1944 or visit http://www.ikat.org.

Cascade Section – Volunteer Meeting

Section Chair Peter Ackroyd is inviting members to discuss future Section activities and to obtain volunteers for future events on Wednesday evening, January 29. The location will be determined depending upon anticipated attendance. Please reply by January 15 to Peter via email at mailto:pdack1@attbi.com or call 206.329.3447.

Central Rockies Section –Washing Machine Donated to the Climbers' Ranch

Future visitors to the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch will be able to wash their clothes in a coin-operated washing machine thanks to a $1,190 donation from the Central Rockies Section. The funds will purchase a new, energy-efficient washing machine for use by Ranch guests.

Central Rockies Section – Dan Mazur Slide Show

The Colorado Mountain Club's Tech Section will present a slide show by AAC member Dan Mazur at the American Mountaineering Center's auditorium at 7 p.m. on Thursday, January 23. Mazur's slide show will feature some of his recent Himalayan climbing expeditions, including Everest, K2, and new routes on lesser-known peaks in Tibet, China and Pakistan. A reception will follow at the climbing wall. Tickets are $8 and will be available in November from the Colorado Mountain Club offices. For more information, contact Susan Trapp by phone at 303.278.1801.

Central Rockies Section – Cody Waterfall Ice Roundup

The Central Rockies Section is jointly sponsoring the 5th Annual Waterfall Ice Roundup in Cody, Wyoming on President's Day weekend, February 14-17. The event, known as "the friendliest little ice festival in the Northern Rockies," offers a weekend of climbing, evening slide-show entertainment, daily climbing contests, and 10 catered hot-cooked meals—all for only $20. All attendees receive an AAC Central Rockies Section coffee/beer mug. For more information, visit http://www.southforkice.com/event.cfm.

New York Section – Mount Rose/Princeton Ridge Bouldering Access

The possible rezoning of a natural area containing three boulder fields and more than 112 separate boulder problems where bouldering has occurred since the early 1950s may turn this area into high-density housing. Comments should be sent to two public officials: Adam Zelner of the New Jersey State Office of Smart Growth (mailto:azellner@dca.state.nj.us) and Edward Fox of the State of New Jersey Planning Commission (mailto:efox@dca.state.nj.us). For more information, contact John Anderson at mailto:ingvarja@medfordstation.com.

Northern Rockies Section – Salt Lake City Event

The first-ever Northern Rockies Section event in Salt Lake City is planned for January 30. This meeting is open to all members and prospective members and will be held at Brewvies, 677 South 200 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84101. The meeting will start at 7 p.m. with an initial discussion of the Section, its history and the potential for additional Section events. Please come participate and let us know your ideas; your voice will be heard. Immediately following this open discussion will be a slide presentation, "Chute to Thrill: Peaks and Powder from Around the World," by Andrew McLean. The event is free, but donations will be accepted at the door with all proceeds going to the Castleton Tower Preservation Initiative.

Oregon Section – Mike Bearzi Rescue Cache at Smith Rock

Earlier this year the AAC Oregon Section, the Cascades Mountaineers, TraditionalMountaineering.org and and InClimb Gym in Bend installed four rescue equipment caches at Smith Rock State Park which were dedicated to Mike Bearzi, who was instrumental in helping fundraise for the project. For more information, visit http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/news_smith_cache_sm.htm.

Oregon Section – Cooper Spur Expansion

The AAC Oregon Section has joined as a voting member of Cooper Spur Wild and Free Coalition, a group comprising local outdoor and environmental groups that is fighting a proposed ski area expansion, destination resort and golf course on the northern flanks of Mount Hood. The project would affect one of the more remote sides of the mountain, including popular backcountry skiing and climbing access. For more information contact Section Chair Bob McGown by email at mailto:r_mcgown@msn.com.

For other events, please check the Upcoming Events page on the AAC's website: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/special_programs/Events.htm.

E-NEWS POLICIES

In order to protect the interests of our subscribers, we have established the following E-News policies:

The AAC office in Golden is the only source of outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients cannot respond to or initiate messages to the list.

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The E-News focuses on timely and important news of interest to members worldwide.

Send comments, suggestions or news items to mailto:lathearn@americanalpineclub.org.